Seamstress Terms: A Guide to the Language of Sewing
The world of sewing and garment creation is filled with unique terminology that can be both fascinating and essential for anyone interested in the craft. Whether you’re a novice or a seasoned professional, understanding these terms can enhance your skills and appreciation for the art of sewing. Let’s explore some of the key seamstress terms that are commonly used in the industry.
1. Armscye
The armscye is the technical term for the armhole in a garment. It is the opening in the bodice where the sleeve is attached. Properly fitting an armscye is crucial for ensuring comfort and mobility in a garment.
2. Backstitch
A backstitch is a technique used to secure the beginning and end of a seam. This is done by sewing 2 or 3 stitches in reverse to prevent the seam from unraveling. It’s a fundamental skill in sewing, particularly for ensuring the durability of your work.
3. Basting
Basting refers to temporary, loose stitches used to hold fabric in place before the final stitching. These stitches can be done by hand or machine and are easily removed once the final seam is completed. Basting is often used in fitting garments or when working with tricky fabrics.
4. Bias
The bias of a fabric refers to the diagonal direction across the weave. Cutting fabric on the bias, particularly at a 45-degree angle to the selvage, allows for more stretch and flexibility. This technique is often used in creating garments that need to drape smoothly over curves, like bias-cut dresses.
5. Bobbin
A bobbin is a small spool that holds the lower thread in a sewing machine. It is inserted into the bobbin case and works in tandem with the top thread to create stitches. Different sewing machines require specific bobbin sizes, so it’s important to use the correct one for your machine.
6. Darts
Darts are folds sewn into fabric to shape the garment around curves, such as the bust, waist, or hips. They can be triangular or diamond-shaped and are essential for achieving a tailored fit.
7. Notch
A notch is a small mark or cut on the edge of a fabric piece that helps align two pieces of fabric during assembly. It ensures that seams match up perfectly, especially along curved edges.
8. Seam Allowance
The seam allowance is the area between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line. It typically ranges from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch, depending on the pattern or the garment being made. Proper seam allowance is crucial for the fit and durability of a garment.
9. Selvage
The selvage is the tightly woven edge of a fabric that prevents it from fraying. This edge runs parallel to the lengthwise grain of the fabric and is often used as a guide in cutting patterns.
10. Tacking
Tacking is a method of temporarily holding fabric layers together with large, easily removable stitches. It is similar to basting but often used in more delicate or precise situations, such as attaching linings or securing pleats before permanent stitching.
11. Grainline
The grainline refers to the direction of the threads in woven fabric. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage, while the crosswise grain runs perpendicular. Patterns typically include grainline markings to ensure that fabric is cut in the correct direction for the desired drape and fit.
12. Interfacing
Interfacing is a material used to reinforce certain areas of a garment, such as collars, cuffs, and waistbands. It is applied to the wrong side of the fabric and can be either fusible (iron-on) or sew-in.
13. Pleat
A pleat is a fold in fabric that is stitched or pressed in place to add fullness or texture to a garment. There are several types of pleats, including knife pleats, box pleats, and accordion pleats, each creating a different visual effect.
14. Hem
A hem is the finished edge of a garment, typically turned under and sewn to prevent fraying. Hems can vary in style, including double-fold hems, rolled hems, and blind hems, each offering a different look and level of difficulty.
15. Yoke
A yoke is a fitted piece of fabric that is attached to the top of a garment, such as a shirt or dress, to provide shape and support. Yokes are commonly found at the shoulders or waist and can be either decorative or functional.
Conclusion
The terminology of sewing is rich and varied, reflecting the complexity and artistry of the craft. Whether you’re reading a pattern, discussing techniques with fellow sewists, or simply refining your own skills, understanding these seamstress terms can enhance your ability to create beautiful, well-constructed garments. By mastering this vocabulary, you’ll be better equipped to navigate the world of sewing with confidence and precision.
